The missing MGN12s on the Tronxy X5S (and other stuff)

After converting the X axis of my Tronxy X5S to HIWIN-style „MGN12“ linear rails went well, I ordered another one. Prices have risen, since I ordered two pieces for the JunkStrap (from 25,- to 30,- €) and the cheapest one was now black, but 450mm long as well.

The color was a good thing, since my LED strips tended to reflect in Octoprint’s Raspberry Pi NoIR Camera Module (initial setup described here). In the meantime I also had found the replacement balls for my existing carriages and there were printed T-nuts below the installed one – so taking that off was a no-brainer. M3x8 button head hex screws and a set of proper T-nuts had been ordered simultaneously with the rail. Cleaning and re-greasing was done as before.

“Sambulance” had already noticed that a 450mm rail would not fit onto the unmodified TronXY X5S New Y Gantry bracket by ljbrumfield, but as the pre-modified thing had an issue with Cura, I chose to make the modification myself in OpenSCAD. I was not quite generous enough with the recess, but I had learned how to compensate that…

Read my previous post about the linear rail mods – the “ljbrumfield” parts were the obvious choice, when I upgraded, but there are other options available now!

Apart from the matching, everything was working as expected – the frame was straight.

Now, that the Mega Gantry was gone, I could finally install the TronXY X5S X Y Corner Pulley Mount by ljbrumfield matching the Y Gantry (which I already printed while waiting for the X5S to arrive). The mount also had some material removed to allow the T-nuts to spin freely. And I added a mirrored Flexible Y-Endstop for Tronxy X5s by mojode.

While I was already at it I could also install some of those “keep the linear bearings from hiking out of their sleeves” things (aka TronXY X5S Linear bearing hold down by Dan_Yole) and fix the belts properly with GT2 Belt Zip Clamps by Dracos. (Third “matching things” with the soldering iron, but worth it for holding the belts in place without leaving marks.)

As I had procured a “silent” 50mm fan in the meantime, I also opened my 24V PSU – and found what I had suspected: That fan was running on 24V. But as described here I could still use the new one for the electronics case (and finally get rid of the adaptor).

What now? Benchy time?

Benchy Time!

Conveniently I had ordered a “transparent blue” PETG sample from, so I could add a Wave stand for the LEGO-compatible 3DBenchy. I have to say I was sceptical about their “plain PETG”, after having had issues with Formfutura HDglass and ColorFabb XT and nGen, but for now it seems to print as good as Innofil3D EPR InnoPET. 🙂

Although there is still some “ghosting” on it, this is my best Benchy so far. (Yellow: Modified TronXY X5S, orange Sumpod, blue Junkstrap – all printed with Co-Polyesters/PET).

Does that printer now run absolutely reliable now? No. There is always something, that can go wrong…


This layer shift, however, was the first one to ruin a print on that machine. So I went on to improve reliability with Wood-PLA by increasing the orifice of the nozzle. I had checked before, that the old Sumpod nozzle had an M6 (x1 – that’s standard) thread as well, so I could drill that out and give it a try.

Time for a quick test (yes, that nozzle is not properly fitted to the heater block…)

The Filament Test Cube by sch00f was still printed with a 0.4mm nozzle in 0.2mm layers, the XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube by iDig3Dprinting was printed with the 0.6mm nozzle using 0.4mm layers. The “spaghetti” dripping out of it also feels really chunky now. ^^

This is not a “Volcano” with an enlarged melt-zone, but despite my moderate speed (70mm/s infill and 40mm/s wall) it took merely 8 minutes, as the large nozzle only needs two passes (instead of three) for a 1.2mm wall.  Thomas Sanladerer has made a pretty good Video on hotends and nozzles and if you prefer to read I recommend

The reason for the order at dasfilament was, of course, getting a refill for my MasterSpool. Their PLA is fine for most applications and there are hardly other suppliers anyway. (I was only aware of and was made aware of add:north after everything was under way.)

Now the spool is really full! Time to change that…

100 of the 850 g and 5 1/2 hours later (the Remixed Folding Dice Tower by Meradin uses hardly any infill and I  printed in 0.2mm layers again) I can confirm: That nozzle leaks. Time to order some stuff again…

…and continue printing in the meantime. 😉

2 thoughts on “The missing MGN12s on the Tronxy X5S (and other stuff)

    1. The ones from the bits box (Y, on the side) were from “Roboter Bausatz Shop”, the black one was the cheapest Amazon Germany had, branded Anycubic. I’m afraid links are not relevant anymore…


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