So that is their great plan to make that RepRap affordable? A combination of through-holes crosswise and thread cutting on the face? Oh my! The whole purpose of these 2020, 2040, “item”, “80/20” (or whatever) profiles is to build square angled cubes easily. And those angles are established with the corner pieces – not a clearance fit and a screw. Good thing I ordered those “FLSUN”-branded packs of “Corners Reinforced Bracket”. (Standardisation is the second point in those profiles I think…)
Well, at least the looks of the Tronxy profiles are superior to those of the corners.
As the corners come in packs of 12 I ordered 24. And as I ordered 24 corners I also needed a pack of 50 T-nuts and 8mm screws each. For some reason I went with M5, not M4 (as Tronxy with the printer). Amazon could send those two bags free of shipping costs – in combination with a spool of cutting-edge Innofil EPR InnoPET filament. So the Sumpod was already printing upgrades out of that stuff, while the X5S was still under way.
Why is that relevant? Because the Tronxy X5s Mega Gantry Plates by graham01 have the ability to help you straighten the cubic shape of the frame. I really like the design – a pity that the designer sold his X5S (at least that Facebook group said so). Hm… two angle brackets already in the way… Nevermind.
Those huge plates have a couple of drawbacks, of course. E.g. they can’t be combined with the (quite popular) “3DFreezeMe”-Idlers or many of the “ljbrumfield” parts. You have to choose. Or stay stock until a bigger mod, like changing the wheels to MGN12 linear rails, is printed and ready to be fixed. Or replace the stock parts with a metal or even carbon fiber version… (Maybe even do no modifiaction at all?)
The only relevant drawback of the Mega Gantry for me was: The back plate of the X carriage collided with them => the gas soldering iron with hot knive attachment fixed that. 😉 (BTW: There are also “Semi Mega Gantry Plates” on Thingiverse now.)
The “belt straightener” later also needed “rework”. Quite a bit of it, as it was not meant to be combined with a “fang” style nozzle fan duct and the stock “Mk7/Mk8” hot end. (I am not sure, if I needed it in the first place, but more on that later…)
Had to exchange the screw- and the nut-side for fixing the wheels on the carriage (to make everything more accessible). But I still hope: The next time I take the carriage apart ist the time I replace it completely. It was yesterday that I realized I could push the carriage a milimeter in X direction by pushing filament into the extruder (and thereby the bowden tube). Not good.
I have NO idea anymore which of the bazillion “CR-10 fang coolers” I printed specifically. Should be for a 4010 radial fan, if you wanna re-use the stock part, so it might have been this one. If you wanna know how they work this one contains a video of it.
The silver duct tape blocks the airflow away from where it has nothing to cool anyway. As Tronxy “made their fan fit” to their mount I had to rely on other means (zip ties) to fix it to the new air duct.
When bolting your own hot end to the carriage, remember to check everything, especially the pneumatic tube. There is a “Tronxy Hotend Assembely Rebuild” article from Scott Worthington on customize-3d.com showing the details.
My “Mk8” specimen worked straight out of the box – and that was the biggest positive surprise to me in the whole package. 🙂 After the bad J-Head clone on the RoStrap (which I destroyed trying to make it work somehow), the E3D sort-of-clone in the Sumpod and the genuine E3D Mk5 (in both of them, and the Junkstrap) all jammed on one or the other occasion. My first hot end to really work like charm was a genuine E3D Titan Aero (mentioned at the end of this post). And the Aero only needs to retract 0.5mm – this one somehow retracs PLA, PET and Woodfill 6mm without jamming!
Next mods: The TronXY X5S simple, reinforced, adjustable X/Y motor mounts by antisubae and Z axis mounts by ljbrumfield – well, at least the upper half. Because Tronxy now makes the lower ones of steel. No more laser cut acrylic broken on arrival.
That “608” bearing had to be beaten into the flange with a hammer, every 8 mm hole had to be cleared out, but then everything was straight. No catastrophic Z-Wobble in sight so far.